The return of umami

Neo-umami is here, but you gotta work for it

Umami is a category of taste in food, besides sweet, sour, salt, and bitter, corresponding to the flavor of glutamates. Also identified as “fifth taste,” umami is known for its slow-release savoriness that chefs chase because it lingers long after sweet, salty, sour and bitter have clocked out. Emily Segal, a brand strategist and author, and co-founder …